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Hydrolocking your engine Status Not open for further replies. Since everybody seems to be getting their Doo's out and ready for the holiday weekend, I'd like to say something about hydrolocking your engines If you're running your PWC on the trailer hooked to a water hose, the procedure is: Start engine, turn on water Failure to do this in the correct order can hydrolock your engine, and that can cause major internal damage!
If the engine is not running, yet you're flowing water in, it will very quickly fill up the exhaust manifold 1 of the places that water hose water is being sent to!
This is bad, very very bad! You have water in at least 1 piston, preventing that piston from reaching the top of the cylinder. If you hydrolock the engine while it's not running, it's bad but not too expensive If you hydrolock the engine while it isn't running, either by flowing water in thru a waterhose or sinking the hull, then you will not be able to start the engine it will be locked.
If it's sunk, get it un-sunk. Then pull the spark plugs out and try to start the engine Continue cranking till no more water comes out the holes!
Then put the plugs back in, suck all the engine oil out and change your oil water in a cylinder will seep down thru the piston rings starting immediately and into the crankcase getting into your oil Once you've blown all the water out the spark plug holes and changed your oil and filter, now you should be able to start the engine normally without harm. The faster you can get this accomplished the better If however you hydrolock the engine while it is RUNNING, you have most likely bent the connecting rod on the piston of the cylinder which locked.
There is no signficant clearance in these engines between the bottom of the piston and the crank shaft counterweight when the piston goes to dead bottom of it's stroke. Once the connecting rod is bent the piston WILL hit the crankshaft counterweight with the engine running.
It'll make aweful noises! The engine will have to be removed from the hull, the head removed, the crankcase split open there really isn't an oil pan as in an automotive engine, the bottom half of the engine actually holds the crankshaft in placeand the damaged piston connecting rod found and replaced.Remember Me?
Sea Doo. Jet Boat. Blacktip Jetsports. Riding Gear. Trailer Parts. Gift Certificates. Jet Ski Lanyards. Jet Ski Traction Mats. PWC Seat Covers. PWC Covers. PWC Dry Bags. Jet Ski Boarding Steps. Results 1 to 10 of Thread: Question on oil hydrolock. Thread Tools Show Printable Version.
Question on oil hydrolock I know the usual reason for oil hydrolocking is bad center crank seals, but I know I read either here or on the SBT board that a bad oil pump check valve?
How can I repair a hydro-locked jetski without taking it in to get serviced?
Can anyone verify this? We just pulled a X apart and the crank seals look fine but the hole crank is saturated with oil. Also any way to verify the seals are good? They look fine.
Last edited by sfancy; at AM. Re: Question on oil hydrolock Are the bearing tight? Bearing that start wearing allow the crank to move enough to allow the seals to leak. SorryI dont know th eanswer to the check valve question. Re: Question on oil hydrolock An RV seal leak is also possible. You cannot tell by looking at the crank seals if they leak or not. The engine I just rebuilt had hydrolocking on oil, and I did a leak test by pressurizing the RV cavity.
I wanted to confirm where the leak was I could hear air hissing out the PTO-side crank seal. However, when I tore it down, the seal itself looked great and was tight on the crank. It is possible that my engine was leaking either around the outside of the seal or between the case joint. Instead of reinstalling it with resealing the case, I just installed a rebuilt crank, since I ordered it already. Besides, the outboard PTO bearing was noisy Re: Question on oil hydrolock Thanks for all the input.
Seems that if the seals look good with no indication of wear, and the bearings are tight, that the seals are probably good and there is either a case issue, rv seal issue, or again, I thought I read somewhere a faulty oil pump can do that.
We've dismantled probably 10 hydrolocked engines in the last couple years and it seems the crank seals looked fine on all of them.Last Updated on June 16th, Using the wrong oil means less lubrication for the moving parts in the engine which can lead to more wear, less power, or even damage!
If the recommended XPS oil is not available, you also can use 5W40 or 10W40 engine oil alternatively. The XPS oil is a 4T 5W synthetic blend oil with anti-corrosion and anti-wear additives, which provide great protection against rust.
According to the company, they decided to release their own brand of oil, as they set high lubrication standards for their engines while there are no proper regulatory standards for oils on the market! On the other hand, a newer supercharged Sea-Doo can cost you thousands of dollars yes, literally every year.
Are you wondering what are the best 2-stroke Sea-Doo oils on the market? What type of oil does a Sea-Doo use?
What is XPS Oil? This is because a high-performance engine HP needs extra care and proper lubrication. Taking this into account, it makes no sense to try to save a couple of bucks on the oil. But if a malfunction or damage is caused by the wrong oil, it could be very costly! Related Articles. Related Posts None found.
Hydrolocking your engine... don't do it!
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Rotax engine substitute oil filter? BobJohnson Jetboaters Lieutenant. Getting ready to order my oil and filter for my Chap engines and Amazon pulled this filter up as a substitute. Anyone have experience with using this or something other than the standard filter in the Rotax engines? KXCam22 Jetboaters Captain. High quality and better than the OEM ones. Also much cheaper which is the main goal.
If you do change the filter brand, be sure to get the 3 O-rings that you'll need for the oil filter change. Comes with everything you need plus spark plugs except for the O-ring that goes under the cover bolt. Last edited: Apr 11, Ron Scarab Jet Boat Addict. It includes the filter and all 3 o-rings.Air goes in, air goes out. The energy created and dispersed in this process is the byproduct we use to power modern machinery. When an engine is properly sealed — machined tolerances, properly torqued hardware, gaskets and piston rings — it will often run optimally.
Improperly gapped rings can permit blow-by and oil contamination. Detonation can occur. Compression can be lost. Gaskets can be bubbled, burned or blown out. And of course, water can penetrate into the oil, or worse, the cylinders and hydrolock the engine. Not nearly as catastrophic but equally as terminal is excessive blow-by.
Blow-by, as the name suggests, is when during the compression stroke, unspent air and fuel in the cylinder literally blows by the piston rings and enters into the crankcase. The raw fuel and carbon particulates quickly contaminate the engine oil as the compressed, heated air pressurizes the atmosphere within the crankcase itself. Piston ring technology has also found its way into stock equipment, with multiple precision ring grooves, compression rings, oil control rings and return drains.
Yet, even in the face of these innovations, blow-by can occur — particularly in high compression or heavily-boosted applications turbo or supercharger. When the compression charge of ignited fuel and condensed supercharged air exceeds the efficiency of the cylinder bowl design, piston shape and rings, the excess pressure seeks out the weakest route to escape, which is often by blowing by the piston rings. Once entered into the crankcase, the atmospheric pressure begins to build.
This superheats the air and oil — far faster than what the engine was designed to withhold, consequently boiling the oil into a miasma of oil mist and fuel vapor. With the engine sealed, this pressure struggles to find release, and will eventually push oil up past the piston rings, causing the engine to start burning oil, blowing white smoke out of the exhaust.
The Positive Crankcase Valve is meant to maintain an equilibrium of healthy crankcase pressure and an internal engine temperature in a normally operating engine. Both are highly detrimental to the health of the engine and can quickly weaken and destroy valves and pistons.
This means that the contaminated, oil-and-fuel heavy fog from the crankcase passes through the intercooler uninterrupted.
A far less catastrophic occurrence is excess windage. Windage is when too much oil clings to the throws of the crankshaft, connecting rods and piston skirts, literally weighing these reciprocating parts and throwing off their carefully balanced weights.
As blow-by saturates the crankcase atmosphere with super-heated oil, it chokes the air inside the crankcase, coating the crank, rods and pistons with a heavy layer of lubricant — far more than these parts need. Failure to follow the correct procedure will result in the ski being over-filled.
This causes decreased engine performance due to windage losses in the engine. Thankfully, resolving these issues is surprisingly easy. As Rosencrantz noted, properly following the oil filling instructions outlined in the service manual of your personal watercraft will ensure that you will not over-fill your engine, even if your dipstick might say otherwise.
This added step helps separate the super-heated oil vapor and unspent fuel, permitting only positive air pressure to filter through into your intake — ensuring a healthy crankcase atmospheric pressure without contaminating the intake charge — all while improving intercooler efficiency by preventing oil contamination which lowers thermal efficiency.
If left stock and oil levels maintained at proper levels, your engine will operate as engineered. The addition of a oil catch can will only serve as an extra filter — a preventative measure.
Yet if modified, the addition of a catch can is almost mandatory to ensure a healthy, equalized crankcase atmospheric pressure as well as a clean, uncontaminated intake charge — which will result in greater engine efficiency and thereby, increased acceleration and horsepower.
Editor-in-Chief — kevin. Almost always found with stained hands and dirt under his fingernails, Kevin has an eye for the technical while keeping a eye out for beautiful photography and a great story. Sign me up for the newsletter! Home News New Products. Gear Products Watercraft. Kevin Shaw.Remember Me?I DESTROYED MY SEADOO!! 787 Rotex 1998 SeaDoo GSX water in cylinder
Sea Doo. Jet Boat. Blacktip Jetsports. Riding Gear. Trailer Parts. Gift Certificates. Jet Ski Lanyards. Jet Ski Traction Mats. PWC Seat Covers. PWC Covers. PWC Dry Bags. Jet Ski Boarding Steps. Results 1 to 8 of 8. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. The ski was winterized and I have yet to be able to start it up.
The engine cranks fine when plugs are out, but does not crank at all when the plugs are in. How do I remove enough oil from the cylinders to stop the hydrolock? There is a post for them near battery. Hold the throttle wide open with towel or a cut piece of cardboard over holes and pump all the oil out you can. Get it started and run it on the hose for a 10 min to clear oil or get it to the water. The center seals are leaking. If it only loads up like that over long periods of storage time I would just let it alone as the only way to fix it is to replace crank Go from there.
Last edited by Maulin Marto; at PM. You will overheat the carbon ring and possibly take on water. You just need to crank it over without plugs letting the starter cool in between cranks until it is clear, put a little premix in the cylinders, and fire it off. Pour this in the oil tank and ride it as it will swell up the seals to slow or stop the seeping all together, This is the thin viscosity to work with the injection oil.
Last edited by sea-one; at PM. Easily get a few more seasons before replacing the crank. Re: Oil Hydrolock - Seadoo GTX If you have a considerable amount of oil in the cylinder floor you can also follow this method to save time and your starter. Pull the plugs, remove the rave valves and rotate the piston skirt above the valve opening.
Get a small diameter hose not to small but small enough to fit through opening. Snake the hose down into the bottom of the crank. Get you a shop vac and put the hose inside the vacuum hose and tape around it.Jump to content.
The following hose connection information is true of all Mercury engines in use by BRP. The oil supply line should be connected to the higher fitting in the center of the cap. The pressure line should be connected to the lower fitting placed off-center in the cap.
Mercury is a trademark of Brunswick Corporation Printed in Canada. All rights reserved. The pressure line  black should be connected to a connector and short piece of hose that is connected to the engine crankcase on the starboard side of the engine.
If the lines are connected correctly at both the cap and the engine, no corrections are necessary. If the lines are reversed at the engine, cut both tie wraps at the oil tank cap and move the lines to the opposite fittings on the cap.
Hydrolocked Engine – What Is It – What Damage Can It Do
Mark them as shown with a paint pen obtained locally. NOTE: Mercury has always marked the oil line with a blue stripe. Marking the lines as shown will clarify any questions when future service is required. Remove the lanyard cap to prevent spark at the spark plugs. Remove the 6 spark plug. Turn the engine over for several revolutions to purge the crankcase of oil that may have run into the cases during storage. Please check, and if necessary, correct all Islandia boats in stock prior to delivery.
If you have delivered any of the models listed, please call your customers and arrange inspection of these oil lines as soon as possible. Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety.